Citrus days are here again

Citrus days are here again and I have been busy making copious quantities of marmalade. We managed to have sufficient pots of marmalade in 2022 to see us through until January 2023, when we ate the last one – a very nice 8 fruit marmalade.  I gave quite a few away and have no idea how many I made, so this year I am counting. It may be terrifying to find out how many jars of marmalade we eat in a year, but at least it is homemade. I find the process of preserve making very therapeutic. If you have never tried it, perhaps think of giving it a go with my extremely easy recipe below. There is also something immensely satisfying seeing rows of pots in the kitchen filled with your own marmalade (or jam, or chutney).

The markets have been full of different varieties of oranges and lemons. The colours and smells are so cheering on a grey cold January day. Last Saturday I came across a Maltaise Orange and a Citron de cèdre – a Cédrat lemon from Italy.  Both look a little unusual – the Maltaise Orange is grown exclusively in Tunisia and is known as the Queen of Oranges, the lemon is enormous, about 3 times the size of an ordinary lemon and is used mainly in cooking and for candied fruits. Its peel is very aromatic apparently, the pith very thick and it has very little juice but is sweeter than a lemon.

Bitter oranges (oranges amères or Seville oranges) have also made their appearance so another batch of marmalade beckons. Earlier in the month we tried a chocolate orange – an almost khaki coloured orange, very sweet and juicy and again unusual. It is so tempting to make marmalade from all these varieties. My poor preserve shelves are beginning to creak under the weight. In fact one looks like it may soon part company with the wall, so no more jars there for the moment.

As the marmalade simmers in the kitchen, the scent permeates every corner of the house. I am a huge fan of citrus as a smell so it is very uplifting when the whole house smells of this. The joy at watching the jars fill with a beautiful sizzling golden orange liquid carrying delicious chunks of peel is so gratifying. We all love tasting each different version which keeps everyone busy at breakfast time. I always make a little taster pot of each variety so we can compare them. The fridge is a little cluttered with marmalade samples at the moment. I am not complaining though, as I love toast and marmalade (or brioche, or croissant….). Yesterday I finished my 8^th batch of marmalade this year. Each one yields about 6-8 pots depending on their size, so I don’t think we will run out this year.

As I mentioned in my last blog post (Winter Weather), I recently discovered a very unusual marmalade recipe in an old French seasonal food magazine (found in one of those fabulous free book phone booths that seem to be everywhere here in France). It is a lemon and pear marmalade – which takes 3 days to make! Perhaps not one to make every week but it is utterly superb. I have also made 3 fruit and 5 fruit marmalade, red orange marmalade (as opposed to blood orange which is different), Grand Marnier marmalade and  orange and ginger marmalade and many more including bergamot marmalade, which I first made last year. It turns out that in France what is sold as a bergamot is actually a citrus limetta or citron bergamote, a sweeter citrus fruit, more orange in colour although it is from the lemon family. These special little fruit have an amazing aromatic flavour and make a great marmalade – not for everyone but we love it. The bergamot that flavours Earl Grey tea is a citrus bergamia, and has a much more intense flavour and aroma.

I have learned so much about the different citrus fruits. The choice and varieties here during citrus season are incredible. I feel so lucky to be able to find such a wide selection at our local market. As I have said countless times, it is wonderful to be living in a place where such emphasis and pleasure is taken at the seasonality of fruit and vegetables. I have always favoured this as when in season produce tastes at its best and you look forward to that season. This is such a contrast to eating anything anytime in the year. Things stop being special when you can have them all the time, and as for the flavour!

So if you feel inspired to turn your hand to a spot of marmalade making the following recipe is really easy. You can vary the size of the peel or strain it for a peel free version (my sister loves this as she is not a fan of peel – I usually try to make a couple of pots especially for her, for when she comes to visit).

I hope you enjoy it. Do let me know if you would like the Lemon and Pear Marmalade recipe.

February brings pancakes galore here in France as we celebrate La Chandeleur on 2^nd February and then Shrove Tuesday on 21^st February. More on that next month along with the latest in seasonal offerings and another recipe.

A bientôt

Ali xx

Marmalade recipe

This is an easy marmalade recipe that works well with any of the suggested fruit. I have made it with a single variety such as Seville oranges, clementines, blood oranges but also a mixture using 3, 5 or even 8 fruits and also a bergamot marmalade. All are delicious.

Makes about 3kg (6 ½ lbs approx.)

Ingredients

About 1.5kg oranges (eg: Seville, bitter, blood orange) or a mix of citrus fruit in any combination, eg: oranges, clementines, limes, lemons, grapefruit.

Juice of 1-2 lemons (1 if you add a lemon to the fruit mix)

(For lemon marmalade you don’t need to add the lemon juice)

1.5 – 2kg granulated or preserving sugar, depending on how sweet you want it.

Glass jars and lids

Method

1: Wash the oranges (or citrus fruit) and cut them in quarters lengthways.

2: Cut each quarter widthways as thinly as possible (or as thick as you would like).

3: Remove all the pips as you go.

4: Place the fruit in a large wide saucepan or preserving pan (large enough to boil the fruit safely) and cover with 2 litres of cold water and the lemon juice.

5: Leave to soak for 24 hours. This allows the peel to soften and the fruit to release the pectin.

6: After 24 hours, bring to the boil and simmer vigorously uncovered for 1 hour. This should reduce the liquid by about a third to a half.

7: Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar.

8: Depending on time, you can cover and leave for 24 hours, or on a gentle heat stir until all the sugar is dissolved.

9: Then bring to the boil and keep boiling for 15 minutes stirring from time to time to stop it catching on the bottom. If you have left it for 24 hours, stir well before heating to ensure the sugar has dissolved.

10: To check for setting point, either use a sugar thermometer (setting 104°C/219°F) or put a spoonful on a cold saucer. When mixture is cold, push it to see if it wrinkles.

11: Once the setting point is reached, remove from the heat and leave for 10 mins for the peel to settle.

12: Stir well and pot into sterilised jars. Top with waxed disks and seal with lids.

13: Label when cold.

14: Enjoy

Sterilise jars by washing them in hot soapy water and rinse well. Place in preheated low oven on their sides for 10-15 mins until dry, while the marmalade is boiling.